In Scotland we always have a public holiday at the end of September, and this year we decided that, since a local lockdown scuppered our Spring trip to Langdale, that we would try again and see if we were “second time lucky”. Fortunately, we were.
Great Langdale campsite, run by the National Trust, is in one of the more remote parts of the Lake District. It lies in a dramatic location, tucked in the valley, surrounded by the rugged Langdale mountains.


There are plenty of walks that can be done from the campsite, including the long hike up Scafell Pike, the second highest mountain in both the Lake District and England, and the equivalent of a Scottish “munro”. We did this hike from Greater Langdale many years ago when we were much younger; in fact our friend John reminded us that was the weekend that we “started our amazing life together “.
On this occasion, partly given that we don’t quite have the same stamina now that we had then (the return walk is just short of 20 kilometres) and partly because I am suffering from what Dr Google tells me is plantar fasciitis, we stuck with shorter walks.
On the Saturday it was mostly dry, with some drizzle, but a warm 18-20 degrees. We headed from the campsite to Blea Tarn, and onwards from there to the caves at Little Langdale.
We passed a few other walkers on the way, mostly in tee shirts despite the drizzle, as it was just too warm for rain jackets. At Blea Tarn the cloud was quite low and it was a bit misty, but still made for a pretty photo.

The walk was relatively easy going for the most part, although fairly steep as we left the campsite. From the tarn, it was mostly quite level or slightly downhill (we took the “long way” so as to spend as little time on the road as possible). We weren’t quite sure how to get to the caves, although we had a rough idea, but other walkers we met confirmed that we were on the right path as we headed towards Slater bridge, a very traditional and old bridge over the river Brathay.

From the bridge, it was only a short distance to the caves (which, although popularly referred to as caves, are actually a small network of inter-linked quarries). We entered through the “tunnel” in the photograph below…

As we came out the other end of the tunnel, we entered the huge cavern, known as the “Cathedral Cavern”, which was quite stunning!

There are quite a few caves to explore and some involve a bit of steep scrambling, so we didn’t explore them all. We found one that was accessible with some easy scrambling, which we entered and found ourselves looking down into the main “Cathedral” with nothing to stop us stepping over the edge!

Walking back from the caves, my foot started to hurt big time, so we ditched our planned trip to the local pub and chilled out at the campsite for the evening with a campfire, some wine and leftover curries that we had brought with us for a meal.
The next day, Sunday, the weather was turning for the worse. The drizzle was now rain, and the spells between showers became shorter and shorter. We decided on a short walk up to Stickle Tarn, following Stickle Ghyll (waterfall) all the way up via a series of man-made “steps” (until they stopped, and then it was a case of scrambling our way up the last part). The weather remained mainly dry as we hiked up alongside the waterfalls, but by the time we reached the tarn the cloud was very low, the rain was heavy and visibility was poor.


We didn’t spend long at the tarn, just long enough to take a couple of pretty wet “selfies” before tackling the scramble back down. Until we got to the path (or should I say “steps”) we had to just hope that we weren’t veering too far off course. We found a part of the waterfalls that seemed ok to cross at (it helped that we were wearing our welly boots) and we joined the path for the rest of the hike down.
It was quite hard going on the knees, so we were glad to reach the bottom. Once there, we headed into the Sticklebarn pub (also run by the National Trust) where we had a couple of drinks and an early dinner.
A short 15 minute walk back to the campsite and we got the fire going inside our tent (we have a stove inside, which is fabulous for the cooler months).

By 8pm the rain came on heavily and that was us until we had to pack up a wet tent in the morning (the downside of camping).
We would highly recommend the campsite at Langdale. The facilities were great, the location was stunning, it wasn’t crowded, fires & bbq’s are allowed as long as they are raised off the ground, as was our tent stove allowed (many campsites don’t allow either).
Here is a link to their website if anyone is interested.
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