Jura & Islay, both famed for their whisky distilleries, are in the Inner Hebrides with Islay being the most southern of the group.
To get to Jura, you first need to take the Cal Mac ferry to Islay from Kennacraig on the Kintyre peninsula on the mainland to either Port Ellen or Port Askaig. From Port Askaig it’s a very short hop (10 minutes) over to Jura on the small car/passenger ferry. However, in summer, if your going on foot, there is also a passenger ferry from Tayvallich on the mainland to Craighouse on Jura.
We were a bit worried about whether we would make it to Jura on the day we arrived, given that you cannot pre-book a place for either a car or passengers on the small ferry, but it was no trouble. We came off the Cal Mac ferry, joined the queue for the Jura ferry and bought our tickets on board, and were over on Jura within the hour. The Jura ferry runs quite frequently, so even in the height of summer, it would be unlikely you wouldn’t get on it.
We had a week to spend, and chose to have 2 nights on Jura and 5 on Islay. This works out pretty well unless you plan to do lots of walking, such as hiking up the “Paps”, then you may want more time on Jura.
There is only one road on Jura that a regular car can drive on, it starts at Feolin (the ferry port) and after approximately 8 miles arrives in Craighouse, the main village on the island, and home to the Jura whisky distillery and the Jura Hotel (the only hotel on the island).
A further 17 miles takes you to Inverlussa (home to the Lussa gin distillery) and pretty much as far as you can get by car. So if you don’t have any big hikes planned, a day is probably enough to get a feel for the island (this could also easily be done without overnighting if you got an early ferry across and a late ferry back). However, having a couple of nights there was definitely worth it in our opinion.
As the ferries, particularly the longer distance Cal Mac ones, can be subject to disruption or cancellation due to weather conditions or otherwise, we weren’t keen to book a hotel room in case we didn’t make it. The hotel, however, allow camping (no need to book) on the big field across the road next to the shore, and use of the facilities block (consisting of toilets, showers, dishwashing and a washer/dryer) for a modest fee of £10 per tent per night. The showers require a £1 coin for 4 minutes, and the washer/dryer you also pay to use, though we had no need to.
Even in July there was no need to pre-book the camping, and in fact it was very quiet when we were there. Perhaps only during the music festival it might be busy.
On arrival, around 4pm, we pitched up and booked dinner at the hotel. We had a short walk around once our tent was set up, then a shower and change before our meal. A few drinks in the hotel bar afterwards, where we were entertained by a local band before heading back to our tent for an early(ish) night.
As we had booked two nights, we had the whole of the next day to explore, and with the long summer nights this gave us ample time. The weather was very changeable and we went through 3 seasons in one day! We had brought our inflatable canoe on this holiday, but unfortunately the winds were pretty strong for the whole trip, and it was overcast and dreicht for much of the time (a typical Scottish summer really) so we didn’t use it on either Jura or Islay. In fact, most of the sunshine that we did see was brief snippets between showers on our day on Jura and on the day we left to go home.
As you can see from the photos though, there were some nice beaches and bays that would have made for some nice paddles.
On both Jura and Islay there were also some quirky wee “libraries” like this one at Knockrome…
In addition, on our first morning we were greeted by a herd of deer on the campground. I love this photo of them in from of the distillery.
Speaking of the distillery, we were told it was closed for tours, but what we didn’t realise was that it was still open for free tastings! Can you imagine how frustrating it was to find that out after we had left? Not being a fan of whisky I didn’t mind, but Paul was gutted.
During our last night on Jura, we again visited the hotel bar. This time we got talking to some other campers (Jude, Juls, Hamish and Andrew) and played some games of pool. It was really friendly and a fun night, just like the “good old days” when pubs (well the punters) seemed to be a lot friendlier and more sociable than they are now.
We were both a little hungover the next morning, Paul more so than me, so this time I drove. We got the ferry over to Islay just after midday and headed to the campsite at Port Mor (next to Port Charlotte) about 30 minutes drive from Port Askaig (if that).
This campsite here costs £10 per person per night and has excellent facilities and one of the best (free) showers we have experienced whilst camping – no pressing a button every 10 seconds to turn the water back on! And a communal changing area, which meant loads more space.
There is also a community centre and cafe on site and a kids play park. The tent field sits above the water, looking over to Jura, and it had loads of space – the downside of this being that it is very exposed to the wind. Despite this, and as there are no really sheltered spots, we chose to pitch at the front, above the water, for the view.
From a couple of hours after we got pitched and until the day before we left, the winds picked up to 20/25 mph plus, peaking at over 40 mph on our second day for a full 24 hours. We put up a windbreak and then used the car as well to break some more of the wind. Still, we ended up with several fractures on the rear pole, which we had to duck tape over.
At one point we thought it was just going to be a matter of minutes until the tent collapsed, so we put up our spare (small) tent, which was no easy task in those winds, so that we could move into that if need be. However, our backup plan quickly backfired when the wind flattened the small tent (the poles were just too flimsy) and ripped off one of the guy lines!
More duck tape later, much to our surprise and relief, the big tent was still standing. After around 24 hours the wind, although still pretty relentless, dropped under 30 mph, and we felt we could head out to explore (prior to that we left the car there as an extra windbreak).
We had already studied the map that a friend had given me (you can also pick them up free on the ferry), and we had been given some recommendations, so we had a list of places we wanted to go.
DISTILLERIES
At the time, there were 9 open distilleries on the island (and another at Port Ellen is being built), so there was plenty to keep Paul amused during the wetter weather. We visited all 9 distilleries over 3 days. All offered at least one free tasting, and most also offered driver samples in little glass bottles (sometimes they were offered, but often you had to ask). Only 3 had somewhere to have lunch (Ardbeg, Kilchoman and Ardnahoe); the Ardbeg one sold food from a van, and we have to give a 10/10 for their haddock chowder – it was fantastic! Kilchoman’s cullen skink was disappointing, it had an odd taste that we couldn’t decipher and very little fish in it. The cafe at Ardnahoe looked nice (as did the cakes) and had a great view, but we were there too late, a short time before it was closing.
Distilleries where we got free take away driver samples were Bowmore, Lagavulin, Laphroig, Ardbeg, Ardnahoe, Caol Ila and Bruichladdie (which did gin also). At Kilchoman you had to pay for the drivers samples.
Distilleries with free tastings and where/how to get them – Caol Ila in the visitor centre, Bowmore in the bar upstairs (or ask for a drivers sample in the visitor centre downstairs if you are too early), Laphroig in the bar (plus sometimes free tea and coffee), Lagavulin – at the desk in the visitor centre (no free samples in the bar), Ardbeg – ask to try some in the shop/visitor centre, when they are quiet they are pretty generous and let you keep the glass. Kilchoman – at the bar in the visitor centre, 2 types are free, others have a small charge to taste. Charge for driver samples. Bruichladdie – at the bar in the visitor centre. Quiet when we went, very generous, had several samples and got 4 driver freebie samples (2 whisky and 2 Botanist gin, who share the premises). Bunnanahain – at the desk/bar in the visitor centre/shop, just ask. Nice outdoor terrace with beautiful view where you can go and sit on a deck chair, enjoy the view, and taste your samples. Ardnahoe – at the desk in the visitor centre, just ask. Their own whisky isn’t ready to bottle and sell yet as they are quite recently opened, but they have some exclusive whiskies from other distilleries supplied only to them, including a special Scarabus which only they sell, but it is made by an undisclosed distillery on the island.
If it’s not obvious where to try a free sample when you go in, don’t be shy, just ask if they have any free tastings. Most of them do tours and tastings which are paid for, but all had at least one (and often two or more) whiskies that you could try a sample of for free.
Jura – the distillery aren’t doing tours until September, and we thought therefore they were closed to the public until then. We found out too late that they are still open to the public (just not for tours) and were offering free samples if you ask.
EATING OUT
The best value and tastiest for a lunch whilst touring the distilleries, was the caravan outside the Ardbeg visitor centre, and as mentioned earlier, we would highly recommend the smoked haddock chowder.
The cafe/restaurant at Port Mor campsite and community centre, just outside Port Charlotte did nice fish & chips and quiche & chips. Their cakes were lovely too.
The Lochindaal Seafood Kitchen in Port Charlotte was probably the best overall. The prices weren’t too steep and the food was good. I had the garlic mushrooms with blue cheese starter, Paul had the scallops, then mains were fish & chips and prawn linguine. The house wine was nice at just under £19 a bottle.
The Port Charlotte hotel was also very nice but getting a bit more expensive. I preferred my starter at the Seafood Kitchen, although the soup starter at Port Charlotte was nice; and Paul preferred the scallops at the Seafood Kitchen to the seafood starter at the hotel. The “posh fish & chips” at Port Charlotte beat the fish & chips at the Seafood Kitchen, although both were nice, the posh one really hit the spot. The £36 fillet of Argyll beef was the main thing that swayed it. Paul found it to be too bland and unseasoned, which was a shame as it is one of the most expensive fillet steaks he has had in a restaurant. He said the linguine in the Seafood Kitchen was much tastier. We did share a sticky toffee pudding to finish, which I thought was lovely, and Paul found just “ok”. Maybe his taste buds were off after too much whisky tasting (although he had a similar amount of tastings before our meal at the Seafood Kitchen, so who knows…)
The Bridgend Hotel was nice for a final lunch on the island of mac ‘n’ cheese for me and a burger for Paul.
PLACES WE VISITED (OTHER THAN DISTILLERIES)
There are some nice beaches and bays to see, although we didn’t see many of them at their best due to the weather. You will see where they are if you pick up the free map; we did this and then circled the places we wanted to go.
Ones we visited that we would recommend are Machir Bay; Killinallan at the entrance of Loch Gruinart (park on the grass past the ruined house and before the gate and then walk from there – it can be very boggy until you reach the beach, but it’s worth it!); Kilnaughton Bay / Carraig Fhada Lighthouse (next to Port Ellen – follow the road signposted to the Oa) and the Singing Sands a short walk from the lighthouse and where you will probably see the wild goats; and Claggain Bay (which is as far as you can drive if you continue on after the “Three Distilleries” from Port Ellen).
In addition, if you get a good day for it (unfortunately we didn’t) then consider doing the walk to the American Monument and the Mull of Oa. It’s not a long walk, perhaps 2.5 miles round trip, and you can go there after the Singing Sands (which, by the way, didn’t sing for us, although they’re still worth a look).
Not far from Port Charlotte, which is a pretty little place too, you can drive about 7 miles further south to the pretty village of Portnahaven, where you can see seals on the rocks or in the water.
I imagine, had we been luckier with the weather, that we would have had some nice canoeing, but instead we spent a bit more time than planned doing whisky tastings!
In summary, between the two islands of Jura and Islay, there is plenty to do in a week – whisky tastings and/or tours, beaches, canoeing/kayaking/paddle boarding (if the weather/wind is favourable), hiking, hillwalking and some great places to eat out and enjoy the fresh seafood.
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