Valentines at Loch Linnhe and Glencoe

As Paul was due some TOIL, we decided it might be nice to take Valentines Day off and have a long weekend away. Having stayed at the Corran Hotel before and really liked it, we chose to book for the Saturday and Sunday night. It’s on the banks of Loch Linnhe, so perfect for canoeing from.

The weather forecast wasn’t good, but we ended up being lucky. On the Saturday we got a text before midday to say that the room was ready to check in anytime. We arrived about 3pm and just settled in to relax. It was wet and windy, so we just hoped that Sunday would be better for getting out in the canoe and/or for a walk. The wet weather did however make the waterfalls look pretty awesome. The one in the photo below is at the side of the main road coming through Glencoe.

The Glencoe waterfall

We’d brought some wine and nibbles and snuggled up on the sofa to watch Netflix on the TV.

Sunday turned out to be dry all day despite the forecast on all weather sites for rain. The loch was like a millpond earlier on when we set out for a paddle in our canoe.

The slip at the Corran Ferry
A calm loch (though it did get a bit choppy later on!)

During our paddle we saw a seal and an otter. Unfortunately they didn’t stay up long enough, or get close enough, for us to get any photos, but it was still cool to see them.

We paddled north for a bit, hugging close to the shore, then we headed out across to the other side of the loch, in the direction of Ardgour, where we came ashore to visit the Argour Brewery to buy some beers for Paul. We then loaded them into the canoe to bring back to the hotel, a selection of all 7 of their beers.

Ardgour Ales selection

It was still early in the day when we finished our paddle, so we dropped off the beers to stay chilled on the patio, then headed out on a walk to Inchree waterfalls. From there we took the path up to the waterfall viewpoints and then continued on the 5 km loop back to the car park.

It’s a really good short walk to do if you’re staying nearby, and the photo below really doesn’t do the waterfalls any justice. They cascade down for quite a distance, the photo only shows one bit of them. The views over Loch Linnhe and the mountains was really good too.

Inchree waterfalls

After our paddle and walk, we enjoyed a romantic evening in with some food we’d brought from home, and of course some more wine and beer.

The hotel allowed us to check out a little late, at 10.45am, so there was no rush in the morning. We were able to have a lie in and then enjoy the complimentary breakfast of muffins, fruit corners and orange juice.

Coming home, this time we drove through Glencoe village, where we saw signs for the Glencoe Lochan. We’d not heard of this before, so we quickly looked it up on the internet and saw some great photos, and found out it’s only a mile to walk around the loch, so we decided to do just that. What a find! The lochan was like a mirror, very calm, and reflected the mountains of Glencoe in the water. Even with photo stops, it was only a 30 minute walk, all flat, so we would absolutely recommend it to anyone who has half an hour to spare. Or for a bigger and higher walk, you can head up to the Pap of Glencoe.

Glencoe Lochan
View from further round the lochan

We finished the trip home with a drive along Glen Etive, stunning as always. You can read about this drive in our other blog by clicking here.

If you enjoyed reading this blog, please use the buttons below to give us a Like and Share. Happy travels!

An overnight stay at the Oak Tree Inn, Balmaha during Storm Corrie

A few weeks ago we saw a post from the Oak Tree Inn on Facebook offering free loyalty cards which could be used to get a 40% discount on accommodation, food and soft drinks during January & February. It was too good an offer to miss, so we got in touch and booked dinner and one of their deluxe rooms for the last Sunday in January.

Balmaha is on the banks of Loch Lomond, and the Oak Tree is a perfect place to go for a drink, lunch or dinner when we go out there for hiking or canoeing, which we do at least a few times a year.

We had hoped to combine our Sunday night stay at the Inn with the Saturday night camping on Inchcailloch, which is just a short hop over from Balmaha. However, we couldn’t have picked a worse weekend as we had Storm Malik from Friday to Saturday, followed almost straight after by Storm Corrie on Sunday afternoon! Fortunately Storm Corrie didn’t hit too badly or last too long, but Storm Malik was pretty wild, so there was still no way that we were going to risk heading over to Inchcailloch in our dinghy with our camping gear on the Saturday, as we’d have likely capsized!

On Sunday morning it was the “calm between the storms” so we headed to Balmaha early, arriving about 1pm. At this point the weather was overcast, but dry and relatively calm. We did a short walk along the shores of the Loch to Millarochy Bay, managing to avoid the rain until we were nearly back.

Near the start of the walk (looking back)
A lovely memorial someone left on one of the beaches
The famous “lone tree” at Millarochy Bay

Check-in was at 3pm, and we were delighted to be given an upgrade to a premier deluxe room, which was very spacious with a superking bed, a bathroom with Arran Aromatics toiletries and a separate bath and shower (the bath even had a TV!) and a sofa & coffee table looking out the patio doors onto the deck, with the loch just a bit further away.

Our room looking towards the entrance
Our room looking out to the patio and loch further away

We had booked dinner for 6pm, but headed to the a little restaurant early as the weather was getting quite wild with gusty winds and heavy rain. Inside was cosy, though, and we enjoyed a lovely meal with good beer and wine (the Romanian pinot noir is fabulous!) Paul finished off with a whisky flight from the Glengoyne Distillery – 10,12 and 21 year old drams plus a free tour and tasting voucher for the actual distillery to be used on a later date.

Drinks before dinner in the cosy restaurant
Paul’s Glengoyne whisky flight

There were umbrellas to borrow both in the cottage (where our room was located) and at the Inn itself, which was a nice touch, although we didn’t use them due to the high winds.

Once we were fed and watered, we borrowed a couple of wine glasses to take back to the room, as we had brought a bottle with us, and enjoyed the rest of the evening relaxing.

Monday morning was relatively calm again, and Paul didn’t have to start work until 1pm, later for myself, so after check-out we headed up Conic Hill. It’s a good wee hill to go up, and the views over the loch are amazing. It starts from the main car park & visitor centre. We are probably about average as far as walking pace goes, and it’s a steep we climb with lots of steps, but we got all the way up and back in two hours, including photo stops. If you have less time, or just don’t fancy going all the way up, there is a great spot where it temporarily levels off about half way up which, in our opinion, is actually even better than the summit for photos. If you want to head there, then after all the steps, as you see your first glimpse of the loch below, the path splits with the main path heading right and a less defined (but defined enough) path heading left (pretty much straight ahead actually). Take this one for a shorter walk – you will still get awesome views!

Heading up the steps – a hard slog, but worth it!
The view approximately half way up
“Selfie“

We hope that you have enjoyed this short blog. If you did, please use the Like and Share buttons below. Our other blogs on and around Balmaha and Loch Lomond, canoeing and hiking, can be found by using the search facility, or click here to read about the trip that we didn’t manage this time – an overnight camp on Inchcailloch. You can also find or follow us on Facebook by clicking this link.

A preview of my latest book “Chasing Dreams”

Just published at the end of the year, this is a part “diary style” account of my world travel adventures during 1989-90. Before the age of technology such as email or I-phones, travel perhaps wasn’t quite as easy as it is now (or was pre-pandemic) but it was a whole lot of fun, anticipation and adventure.

Here is a short extract from the beginning of the book –

“The year is 2021 and as I start writing this, we are still in lockdown here in the UK. As I don’t have work just now due to the lockdown closures, I decided to dig out my old diaries and write this book based on my travels throughout late 1989 and 1990, in the hope that anyone who reads this might also be inspired to travel.

I was travelling in total for almost 15 months, from 26th September 1989 until 20th December 1990 travelling from London to Kathmandu on an Exodus “overland” trip, and then independently within Nepal, India, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Australia and New Zealand.

My original intention was to travel “around the world”, however it didn’t work out like that and New Zealand was as far as I got. I was lucky to later marry a wonderful man who loves travelling as much as I do, and with him, I’m still “ticking off” the countries that I missed, although Covid has put a hold on that (hopefully just temporarily).

When I set off travelling in 1989, I was 22 years old, but very trusting and naive for my age and certainly not at all “worldly”. It didn’t strike me as being even slightly risky when I put an advert in a travel magazine to look for a travel companion, but I think it really worried my friends and my parents. Fortunately, it all worked out fine in the end.

Speaking of my advert, which I placed in a magazine called “The Adventurers”, it didn’t get very many responses. Only a few people contacted me, one of whom was a guy called Andy who came up to visit for the weekend so that we could see if we got on ok and if our travel plans and interests fitted. I was staying with my parents back then, and now looking back, I can’t imagine what they thought about it all. However, they obliged me, and my brother, Craig, got moved into my room for the weekend so that Andy could have his room. As it happened we got on extremely well, he was easygoing, and my parents and friends seemed to like him. We went out to a nightclub one evening, a party the next, and I showed him around Glasgow and took him on a drive out to the Campsie hills and Loch Lomond. We crammed a lot into that weekend and by the end of it, we had talked about him meeting up with me in Kathmandu (after my Exodus trip) to travel for a while.

It’s funny reading back on my diary, at the same time as Andy came up, I was writing about a relationship I was in that was starting to fall apart at that time, and I was pretty devastated about it. Now I’m not surprised it was falling apart. Goodness knows what he must have thought about me having a man I met through an advert come up to visit, not to mention that I was planning to go off travelling with him later in the year! But at the time, I didn’t see anything wrong with that, as I have always had friends who were male. It just wouldn’t have crossed my mind to think any more of it. Now that I’m much older, I can see how weird it must have seemed, and I’m not surprised that the relationship I was in didn’t work out.

Anyway, plans didn’t work out in the end with Andy, and he wasn’t able to travel when the time came. However, about three and a half months after first meeting Andy, I went down to London to meet another guy, Iain, who had replied to my advert. We only met for a couple of hours in Hyde Park, and we got on ok (though I didn’t have as much in common with him as I had with Andy). Anyway, our plans fitted as he was going to Africa at the time I was doing my London to Kathmandu overland trip, so a few weeks later we made some plans to meet up in Kathmandu at the end of my trip and travel on together afterwards through Asia and beyond.

 

2

Getting ready to go

I’ve always been one for “To Do” lists, and back then was no exception, so here is a list of the preparation that I did for my trip:-

Eight months before – I put an advert in the Adventurers magazine for a travel companion. I had about 12 replies, of which one fell through (Andy) and one worked out (Iain).

About four months before – I decided to start with the Exodus trip from London to Kathmandu and booked up. WEXAS (with whom I took my travel insurance) assisted with the purchase of visas that were required in advance of travel.

Two months before – told my work what I was planning and checked if I could get unpaid leave (I couldn’t).

Two months before – made an appointment with my GP to check what travel vaccines I needed and made appointments (the Yellow Fever vaccine was done outwith the GP’s at the Yellow Fever Vaccination Centre). The other required/advised vaccines were: Cholera, Typhoid, Polio, Tetanus booster and Hepatitis A.

Weeks in advance – requested my credit card limit be raised to £1000; had a dental check-up and fillings done; arranged for my mum to have access to my savings for paying off my credit card bills when they came in.

One week before – applied for an Australian working visa in case I got some work there while I was away; left my parents with details regarding using my savings to pay off my credit card bills, notes of my traveller cheque numbers and photocopies of my travel insurance and passport.

A couple of days before – packed up my rucksack and checked that it held everything I needed.

And here is my packing list (I’m amazed it all fitted inside my pack, although the airbed and sleeping bag were fastened onto the outside):-

RUCKSACK

Three-season sleeping bag and sheet sleeping bag/liner

Airbed

Mosquito net

Torch

Cup

Wash kit with soap, shampoo, toothbrush, toothpaste, water purifying tablets etc

Four toilet rolls, three packs of tissues and plenty of sanitary products (I was expecting it to be difficult to buy these things!!)

First Aid kit with folding scissors (a fantastic item, which I still use now!), antiseptic cream, bandages and plasters, alcohol wipes, painkillers, sterile needles & syringes, etc

Travel books

Photocopies of my passport and other important documents

Notebook

Travel cutlery set

Suncream and mosquito repellent

Bivvy bag

Spare toiletries

Batteries for my walkman

Seven lots of camera film

Trainers

Water shoes (“jellies”)

Bumbag

Penknife

Bath towel

Waterproof jacket

Fleece jacket

Waterproof bags

Flat leather shoes

Spare hiking socks (plus the ones I was wearing with my boots)

Warm and cold weather gear

Swimwear and underwear

Hat and gloves

DAYSACK

My diary

Writing set and pens (for writing my diary and writing letters)

South-East Asia travel guide book

Padlock

Cash

Water bottle

Camera

Walkman, headphones and tapes

Sunglasses

Travel alarm clock

Purse with traveller cheques, $150 cash, credit card, spare passport photos (for visas)

Address book

Notebook

Malaria tablets and travel sickness pills

In addition, I wore a concealed money belt with more traveller cheques and a neck wallet with my passport, driving licence, international driving permit, YHA card and instructions for meeting up with Iain in Kathmandu.

Of course nowadays, since technology has greatly taken off (and taken over), and in particular with the invention of smartphones, which almost everyone seems to have, a lot of the above things are now redundant and no longer required.

We no longer write letters; instead, we send emails, texts or digital messages and post updates, photographs and “selfies” of where we are and what we’re doing on Apps such as Facebook. Everything is pretty much “real-time”. People in today’s age will never know the excitement of arriving at a foreign “poste restante” and showing your passport to collect your mail and read belated news from family and friends back home.

We don’t need cameras and rolls of film anymore as we can take photos on our phones and even upload them to “The Cloud” for safekeeping. Similarly, our phones can store our favourite music and we can download books to read on them.

Also on our phones, we can store our travel tickets and boarding cards, and documents like insurance and hotel bookings. We can do our banking and check our statements online, and with Apps like “Apple Pay” becoming more widely used, we can even pay for things using our phones, without the need to carry cash or a credit card (though even now I would never travel without my credit card and a little cash, but you can see where technology is quickly taking us…)

You no longer need books like Lonely Planet to find out the best hotels to stay in, now you can go on the internet and look at Tripadvisor. You can make bookings online rather than turn up and hope that your first or second choice of hotel has a room available.

There is so much more about travelling that is easier and/or more convenient now, but I don’t want to take up too many pages writing about it, so let’s just finish by saying that the world is most definitely more connected now and therefore seems a much smaller place. But the trade-off is that it’s no longer quite as adventurous. When we set off travelling nowadays, we no longer feel like we are heading off into the “unknown”. Don’t get me wrong, I am grateful in many ways for the ease and convenience that technology has given us, particularly when it comes to both the actual travelling and in making all the relevant arrangements. I’m sure we would have struggled to do as much travelling as we’ve managed to since (squeezed into our holidays) without some of these conveniences, but I am grateful that I was able to go on my adventure at the time I did.”

If you like what you’ve read so far, this book is available to buy on Amazon on either Kindle or Paperback. I hope it will give our readers some inspiration!

Disclaimer: this post contains Amazon Affiliate links.

Do you do lots of on-line shopping?

If so, it is worth considering using Quidco. This is a cashback site. You register and use their links to go to the website that you want to shop on. From there you can earn cashback on any eligible purchases.

It’s a genuine site, I have earned over £500 since joining, and unless you go for the premium option, it is completely free.

Here is a referral link that will earn you an additional £5 on top of your first cashback.

We don’t normally advertise anything on this site apart from occasionally our own books or photos, but this one is worthwhile for on-line shoppers and costs you nothing.

Thanks for reading, and we hope that you find this useful!

Happy New Year!

Well, here’s wishing a fab 2022 for everyone. Last year wasn’t a bad one despite Covid and a somewhat shaky finish, but lets hope 2022 brings health, happiness and more adventures!

We started out our Hogmanay at Castlerigg Farm Campsite in Keswick, after a visit down to Cheshire to see Paul’s family.

Our plan was to stay three nights at the campsite, seeing in the new year on our first night. Everything started out well. We got pitched up, plenty of choice of pitches as it was very quiet for tents (but full on the campervan / motorhome field).

We took the Bell Tent so we could have the wood burning stove to keep us warm (plus we also had an electric hook up, not that we needed it as it was an extraordinarily mild few days).

Our tent all set up with the stove on

We cooked up a lovely pizza in a pan on our wood burning stove (works a treat if you fold the pizza like a calzone) and had a few drinks.

Cooking up the pizza

By 9pm we decided that we might need a wee “forty winks” before the “bells” so we went off for a nap (in hindsight this was just as well!)

We got up again about 15 mins before midnight, poured a wee Glayva, and waited for the Bells. At midnight we could see the fireworks going off below us in the village and the two tents behind us also set off a few fireworks. Other than that, it was very, very quiet on the campsite.

Back to bed about 12.30 and slept well until the tent stared shaking about 5.30am as the wind picked up rather fiercely.

By 6am even one of the storm pegs had been pulled out by the wind and Paul went out to re-secure it. We went back to bed until it happened again, but this time other pegs came out too!

Once again Paul re-secured them and once again we went back to bed… until our picnic table was pushed over as that side of the tent started to collapse! More pegs had come out and the groundsheet was lifting off the grass!

Paul tried his best to re-secure us, but the loops the pegs go through had started to tear off. We had no choice but to pack away all our gear, in the dark, and get everything and then the tent bundled into the car!

So now we are back home two days before we were due. The tent needs repaired, but this should be doable. To say we were gutted is an understatement, but like many people this festive season, things just didn’t work out as planned.

We are just hoping that there will be more adventures (not that “adventurous” though) to come in 2022.

Happy new year everyone! We hope that yours was more successful than ours xxx

Wishing our readers a “Merry Christmas”!

Here’s wishing all of you a lovely Christmas, I hope you are all keeping well and have enjoyed your day! For those who were visiting family, we hope it all worked out well.

Our day didn’t quite go to plan, my brother tested positive for Covid on Christmas morning, it had only been a last minute decision of his (on Wednesday) to invite us over for Christmas dinner, but we ended up back to Plan A – just Paul, me and my mum for a very low-key Christmas meal.

We had a nice enough day though and later caught up on the Facebook live chat with our friends Mike and Sam in Norway.

Hoping my brother recovers soon and the rest of his family don’t catch it. Hopefully we can have a belated family meal together after the New Year.

All the best to all of you. Take care, stay safe and have a great festive season!

Yvonne & Paul xxx

Looking for Christmas present ideas?

Check out our Books on Amazon for a great wee stocking filler. Chasing Dreams is our most recent book, it’s a diary-style account of a world backpacking trip that I did back in 1989/90 in the days before the current technology that we have come to rely on.

Click the link here for a list of our books and links to buy from Amazon.

Thanks for reading!

Disclaimer: This post contains Amazon Affiliate links.

A winter paddle on the “big loch” to Inchcailloch

Sunday was a stunning crisp winter’s day. The sun was shining pretty much all day, so it didn’t feel too cold despite the low temperature.

Our friends Sean and Karen had just bought a new Decathlon kayak, so we all headed out to Balmaha for a paddle on the “big loch” (Loch Lomond).

We would have expected it to be very busy on the loch despite that fact it is winter, but we ended up having it pretty much to ourselves.

During the afternoon we saw one cruiser moored at Port Bawn on Inchcailloch, which left not long after we arrived, and a small group of kayakers paddling around, presumably also after having visited Port Bawn, as we approached. Other than that we had the loch to ourselves, at least that part of it.

Sean and Karen had paddle boarded before, but were new to kayaking. They did very well and we made it round to Port Bawn on Inchcailloch no problem. We took the anti-clockwise way round first, leaving the glassy calm side for our paddle back.

Here are a few photos…

Sean & Karen, just heading out from Balmaha
At Port Bawn
Near the jetty at Port Bawn with Ben Lomond in the distance

As we knew it was to be cold, we had brought a few logs for the firepit (of which there are a few at Port Bawn), a flask of hot chocolate and some snacks to enjoy on the beach.

Hot chocolate on the beach

By the time we had our refreshments and a short walk, it was already almost sunset as we left. The water going back via the other side of the island was like glass. The sun was setting in a big orange ball, and it was just a perfect way to finish our paddle.

The sun setting as we paddled back to Balmaha

Sean & Karen enjoyed their first kayak trip, and will hopefully have plenty more to look forward to. We couldn’t believe how quiet the loch was on such a beautiful day, so winter kayaking is definitely worthwhile!

As for Paul and I, should the weather be favourable on Christmas Eve, we might take a wee overnight trip back to Inchcailloch in our dinghy with our camping gear. Failing that, then hopefully it will be good enough for a wee paddle somewhere on the loch for a couple of hours.

Watch this space….

A weekend in the Highlands

On Saturday and Sunday night we booked ourselves a short break up near Fort William in the Scottish Highlands. We got a good deal staying at the Corran Hotel (right next to the Corran Ferry, which makes the short trip across Loch Linnhe to Ardgour on the Ardnamurchan Peninsula).

For £190 we got a suite for the 2 nights, with a decked area outside and a spacious living area with L-shaped sofa in the room. It was a “room only” price, however, in the fridge we found fresh milk, juice, yogurt and muffins for breakfast. There was nowhere that was walking distance open right now where we could go for dinner (unfortunately the pub across the loch in Ardgour was temporarily closed), but as we knew this in advance we had brought some tapas/nibbles and picnic plates/cutlery for the first night, and we got some good fish & chips from Quarrier’s Kitchen in Ballaculish to takeaway for the Sunday night.

We were lucky with the weather considering that it was the end of November, and both the Saturday and Sunday were lovely days (the rain only came on the Monday, so we didn’t hang around after checkout, instead we headed straight home).

The drive from our house in Glasgow to the hotel takes around two hours and fifteen minutes and the scenery gets better and better the further north you drive.

Looking from the roadside as we drove past Rannoch Moor
Approaching Glencoe

As the weather was so good, we extended this to include a side trip along Glen Etive to Loch Etive (about ten miles each way). The Glen Etive road is near Kingshouse, just past the Glencoe ski resort as you head north. This is a drive that I had wanted to do for some time, and it is probably fair to say that it’s the most beautiful glen in Scotland, so it made sense to go while the weather was good. The road along the glen is single track with passing places. You have a very good chance of seeing deer, so be careful driving! There were quite a few parts where some sort of construction work was being done, although we weren’t sure what. Hopefully they’re not going to be building houses, as the attraction of the glen, as well as the stunning scenery, is it’s remoteness.

Driving along Glen Etive towards Loch Etive
Loch Etive, the end of the road
Driving along Glen Etive back towards Glencoe

As we had set off just after midday, by the time we were leaving the glen, the sun had already set and the afterglow was fading. We continued the drive through the dramatic mountains of Glencoe, and when we arrived at the hotel it was almost dark. We had been given a code for the key box (it’s self check-in) so we checked ourselves into our suite and spent the evening chilling out with some wine and the “dinner” we’d brought.

Our hotel suite

I awoke in the middle of the night to use the loo, and noticed that it was snowing! By morning the snow had stopped and we were just left with a light dusting. The morning started out quite cloudy, but the clouds lifted later and we had a nice sunny afternoon canoeing on the loch in our inflatable canoe. We launched where the ferry comes in, and reckon we must have paddled around eight miles return, getting to within perhaps a mile of the bridge that goes over the loch to Ballaculish. Loch Linnhie is a sea loch, and when we first set off it was very calm. By the time we returned we seemed to be paddling against both the tide and the wind, so it was a bit of a slog for the last half hour.

We saw a seal quite close by and paddled towards it, but it wasn’t interested in us (unlike the seals in the Scilly Isles), so we paddled on. The loch is huge, and runs into Loch Leven at the bridge, so there is plenty of canoeing opportunities. It is also surrounded by mountains that were dusted in snow, so it was very pretty. The temperature was about one degree, so we were well layered up with leggings, base layers, wetsuits, Gore-Tex jackets, fleeces and of course our life vests. I wore my welly boots and Paul wore his water booties, both with Gore-Tex socks to keep our feet dry.

Paddling on Loch Linnhie
The Corran Ferry on Loch Linnhie

After returning from our paddle, we headed over on the ferry (which is free to foot passengers) to Ardgour, a five or ten minute trip, to watch the sunset, photograph the lighthouse, and for Paul to buy some beers from the local brewery (about a half mile walk from the ferry). It was a shame that the pub was closed, as that would have been an ideal place to have had dinner.

View from the ferry as the sun was getting ready to set
The Ardgour lighthouse

The sun had already set as we returned, and the sky was glowing pink, orange and red. It was really pretty.

On the ferry back after the sun had set

We then drove into Ballaculish (six miles roughly) to buy our “fish suppers” while Paul’s newly acquired beers were chilling on the decking outside our room. There was no-one else staying that second night, so it was very quiet. We enjoyed another nice relaxing evening and a good sleep. The weather forecast was unfortunately correct, and it was raining quite steadily in the morning, so rather than have another paddle in our canoe, we set off back home after breakfast.

We would really recommend both the hotel and the location for a weekend getaway, particularly if you enjoy canoeing. We’d love to come back again, especially when the pub across the water re-opens and we can visit there for dinner one night. And the side trip along Glen Etive is not to be missed in good weather too (you can also canoe on Loch Etive at the end of the road).

If you have enjoyed reading this blog, please use the buttons below to like and share, and if you like our photographs, check out our portfolio on Photo4Me (today is the final day of the “Black Friday” event, using code BLACK2021 for a 15% discount) – thanks for reading!

An Autumn week in the Cairngorms National Park

At the end of October, we headed up to Carrbridge, just a few miles north of Aviemore and set within the Cairngorms National Park, for a week’s holiday. Taking the most direct route onto the A9, the drive comes in at around 3 hours from Glasgow. Our timing was good as we missed half of the huge COP26 gathering and all that went with it (major road closures, protest marches etc).

For a change, we decided not to camp, but instead booked a cosy self catering apartment (Miss Mackintosh’s Classroom) at the Old School in Duthil, just outside of Carrbridge. As the weather was very mixed, including some heavy rain and strong winds, we were relieved that we had opted for self catering this time. Not to mention, the additional use of the hot tub set within the pine trees up the back of the schoolhouse, was a very welcome luxury that got well-used! As we were the only people staying there, we got it to ourselves – even better! We spent several evenings start gazing through the trees whilst luxuriating in 40 degree warm water…

Enjoying the hot tub in the afternoon
The owner’s BBQ hut next to the hot tub, and guests sauna in the background
View through the trees from the hot tub (stars after dark on clear nights)

Having been to Pitlochry before in the autumn, we made sure to allow ourselves a stop there on the way up to re-visit a few of our favourite autumn photography spots.

Black Spout Falls, Pitlochry
Loch Dunmore, Pitlochry
Killiecrankie Gorge

We stopped off for a quick photograph of the historic Old Packhorse Bridge in Carrbridge as we passed through on the way to our accommodation, and at the end of our holiday we treated ourselves to a lovely and very filling lunch at the Cairn Hotel in the village.

The Old Packhorse Bridge, Carrbridge

Carrbridge turned out to be a good location for exploring the region and wasn’t far from the main town of Aviemore which was drivable within about 10 minutes. If you prefer somewhere with a bit more “hustle and bustle” then Aviemore would be the place to stay with plenty of shops, pubs, restaurants and a very good fish and chip shop (Smiffys) which we would recommend (lovely fish and chips and not at all greasy – same price to eat in as to take away).

We had planned to do some walking and some canoeing, and the whole area has plenty of opportunities for both. The weather limited us a bit, and we only saw the tops of the big mountains once unfortunately, as they remained cloud covered pretty much all week. The Cairngorms National Park contains five of the UK’s six biggest mountains and is a popular ski resort in winter. I can recall a few ski trips there from my younger days, and who knows, perhaps I’ll get to give it a go again one of these days.

On the first full day of our holiday (which was Halloween), it was rather wet, so we settled for a short walk through the woods behind us, a long soak in the hot tub, relaxing later with some wine and home-made pizza and a pretty awful “scary” movie.

The woods behind our accommodation

The next day was better, we headed out while it was raining towards Rothimurchus (we reckoned this was also the best area to see the autumn foliage) and then on to Loch An Eileen with the intention of either canoeing or walking the trail around the loch. The rain had stopped by the time we arrived at the loch’s car park, but we decided just to do the walk rather than get the canoe blown up, as it was still a bit dreich (Scottish for dull and/or wet weather). Loch An Eileen is popular for both walkers and canoeists, and it has the ruins of an old castle on and island just off the shore (there’s not much left of the castle though).

Autumn colours around Rothiemurchus

One of the walks I had wanted to do for some time, was next on our hit list – the short walk through the Glenmore forest to An Lochan Uaine (the Green Loch) from where we then continued on to the Ryvoan Bothy. This is one of the most accessible bothies in Scotland, being only an hour or so away from the nearest roadside. For those who haven’t heard of bothies, a bothy is a basic shelter (usually a hut or small cottage), which is normally left unlocked and available for anyone (mainly hikers) to use free of charge. Very few of them have toilet facilities, but most have some kind of stove to use for cooking and for warmth.

The “Green Loch”
Ryvoan Bothy
Inside the bothy

The next day we finally got our first paddle in – well, actually two paddles. The first at Loch Insh, where beautiful autumn colours surrounded the loch and the water was very calm and flat. We found a good spot to launch, perhaps a kilometre before the water sports centre (where you can also launch for a £5 fee). Our launch spot was very close to the waters edge, on the other side of the road, with room for perhaps only 3-4 cars. It’s worth looking for before paying to launch (if you have the What3Words App it is at approximately at “tested.allowable.massaged”). As we were between showers, we were also lucky enough to catch a full rainbow on the bridge over the River Spey afterwards.

Canoeing on Loch Insh
On Loch Insh
Rainbow over the River Spey

The day was still young, as they say, so we later headed up to Loch Garten for a short paddle. Loch Garten is a nature reserve where in season, and if you are lucky, you just might see an osprey. As it is a nature reserve, there is only a small section of the loch that you are allowed to paddle on, so if you do paddle here, please do abide by this and try to be as unobtrusive as possible. We did not spend long paddling here, only about 30 minutes. The parking was very handy, just across the road from the loch front.

Loch Garten

We had waited, and hoped, for a nice clear and crisp day to do a paddle on Loch Morlich hoping for the “picture perfect” reflection of the Cairngorm mountains in the water as we paddled. It was proving difficult to find an accurate weather forecast channel and the BBC and Met Office were usually quite contradictory to each other. In the end we asked and were told that XC was the most accurate for the area, so I entered Glenmore as the area (as they don’t have Loch Morlich listed, but as it is located in the Glenmore forest, this seemed like a good option). On Thursday the weather report for the morning, particularly around 9-10am, was looking really good – calm and full sun, so we got up early and headed out. We couldn’t understand how the forecast could be so wrong – that is, until I realised that it was a different “Glenmore” I had looked at the forecast for! Oh well, at least we got most of our paddle in before the rain came, but no mountain reflections to be seen. However, we got some nice foliage reflections, as shown in the photo below. Later that day we headed north up to Lochindorb, but when we got there it was rather choppy, so we decided against having a paddle there. It was a pretty drive, though.

Reflections of the foliage on Loch Morlich before the rain came on
Canoeing on Loch Morlich

Friday was the last paddle we got on our holiday as heavy rain and strong winds were forecast for the Saturday. We headed to the nearest loch to Carrbridge, Loch Vaa, which has a pretty little boathouse on it’s shores. To get there, you head towards Aviemore and park in the Laggantrygown cemetery car park and head a short distance through the woods to get to the loch. It’s just a small loch, but very pretty, so it was worth doing. See what you think from the photo below…

The boathouse on Loch Vaa

Our final day (we had extended for an extra night) was pretty wet and windy. We did a short walk in the forest during the afternoon when the rain had started to ease a little, and by evening the rain had mostly stopped and the sky had started to clear, so we managed to spend our final night star gazing from the hot tub. Not a bad end to our holiday.

On our way home, we decided to take the long route via Balmoral to see the Balmoral pyramid, which was built in memory of Queen Victoria’s husband, Prince Albert. The walk to the pyramid is fairly steep towards the end and takes about 30 minutes from the car park or roadside café. Parking is free by the roadside café; the fee is £5 at the main Balmoral car park (the only option is a full day rate!)

The Balmoral pyramid

Continuing onwards from Balmoral, we passed through Braemar and Glenshee (another winter ski area) before eventually joining the A9 near Perth. It was definitely worth taking this route home as it is very scenic, although it added about an hour to the journey.

We hope that you have enjoyed reading this blog. If you did please use the Like and Share buttons below to spread the word. Also check out our Facebook page and books / videos. The video from this trip will be added very soon.

Thanks for reading and happy travels!

Create a free website or blog at WordPress.com.

Up ↑

Design a site like this with WordPress.com
Get started